7.07.2014

Asiago Chicken Pasta


I love pasta.  Especially pasta salad and summer is the perfect time for a delicious easy side dish to go along with grilling!  This recipe has been a favorite of my family for around 15 years now.  Its a classic.  Simple to make you can either make it ahead and then warm it up or serve it warm right away.

Ingredients:
1 box gemelli pasta (cooked)
4 green onions
1 red pepper
4 garlic cloves
1 hunk of Parmesan cheese (or 5 oz. already shredded)
1 hunk of Asiago cheese (or 5 oz. already shredded)
4 chicken breasts grilled & chopped
olive oil
red wine vinegar
Italian seasoning
garlic salt
 Directions:
1. Cook pasta and set aside.
 2. Chop red pepper, green onions & garlic cloves.  You can use a food processor if you want to speed up the process. 
3. Grill chicken & chop then set aside.
4. In a large bowl add pasta, red wine vinegar, olive oil, garlic salt & Italian seasoning.  Mix and taste. 

5. Add grilled chicken and most of the the cheese and mix.
4.  Add remaining cheese on top and serve!

7.05.2014

July 4th Garden Update


 This has to be my favorite month of the year in the garden!  The flowers are blooming, some vegetables are ready to eat (with more to come) and everything looks good!  

When I am cooking or doing dishes in the kitchen I love to look out and see the garden. Especially now with the Zinnias and Sunflowers starting to bloom in the 2 front beneficial flower beds.  Zinnias are great flowers to grow and they come in an array of beautiful bright colors. This year I tried several different kinds (more details below).
Beneficial flowers starting to bloom!  


The beneficial flower beds are not just for looks.  They bring good bugs to the garden (especially bees).  Check out a previous post of mine called:Attracting Beneficial Insects for more tips on this!

Zinnia- Senora
Zinnia Senora: Eye-catching 3" double blooms feature the unique color of salmon pink. 

Blooms all season 
(summer to fall)

36" height
Zinnia- Envy
Zinnia Envy:
Vigorous plants produce spectacular 2-3 flowers in the rarest of colors, chartreuse. 

Many bright 2-3" blooms

30" height

Zinnia- Purple Prince
Zinnia Purple Prince:
Intense, rosy purple, large flowers. 

Blooms for 10 weeks

36" height

Sunflower- Italian White
Sunflower Italian White: An abundance of 4" creamy white to yellow blooms form on multi-branching plants.

Blooms all season 
(summer to fall)
5' height






We also added a new flower bed around our Red Bud tree.  Next year we hope to make the bed even bigger (back to the tree line).  The more flowers you have the more bees will come to your garden!  I should add that I started both the Coleus and some of the Inpatients from seed indoors. 
Red Bud tree with Inpatients, Coleus, Ferns & Hostas
PESTS: Every year there are bad bugs in the garden!  We garden organically so I don't spray our plants with pesticides. I expect that some plants are going to be a loss and we do our best to get the plants as healthy as possible before we remove our row covers (which protect them from bugs) until they need to be pollinated.  So far this season we have been battling 3 different types of Beetles:

7.04.2014

Composting Success


I wrote an earlier post called "The Secret in the Garden" in which I revealed that your SOIL is the most important component in your garden.  

The most beneficial thing you can add to your soil is COMPOST.  It enriches your soil and allows nutrients to be provided to your plants for a long period of time.  It also provides the ability for the soil to hold moisture which is an outstanding attribute.  Another great benefit: When you use compost on your garden you won't need to use any other natural fertilizers!  

Composting really isn't as complicated as you may think.  I have a simple plastic bin for collecting our kitchen scraps that I keep under our sink.  Before this bin I simply used an old Tupperware container with a lid.  

I like that this container has a lid that simply flips open and the handle is nice for carrying outside. Keep in mind anything will work as long as you have a way to seal the top which keeps the smell in. Also if you want something to sit on your counter you can buy a more attractive looking bin.  There are many options out there now!
One of the keys is to remember what you can compost and what you don't compost.  There is a sticker on our bin which reminds others of these rules. For the most part our small indoor bin contains our fruit and vegetable scraps and sometimes we add tea bags. 
Outside we have a compost leaf & pruning pile.  Its simply chicken wire with 4 posts.  Every fall we fill it up with leaves and trimmings for us to use in the Spring.  
We have 2 Compost tumblers

SELECTING YOUR COMPOST BIN: We decided to go with a tumbler because it was simple for us to use.  We love that everything stays contained in the bin and its off the ground.  It is also sealed and we turn it about once a week to keep things going.  (Tip: Just don't turn it in the winter it will be far too heavy and probably break the bolts....this may have happened to me!)

There are many different options out there.  Here are a few more options that are cost effective:
1. Woven wire bin- Use chicken wire and stakes (like our leaf pile bin).  Simple and cheap.
2. Block or brick bin- stack the blocks on top of each other making 3 sides.  Access from the front & top to turn.
3. Wooden bins- 4 sides and a top that you can make out of wood. Top or 1 side can be removed so you can turn the materials.
4. Turning bin- Usually 2 or 3 bins side by side together.  Add new material to 1st bin and then move to 2nd bin after a couple of weeks and continue adding new to 1st bin. 
 
HOW TO COMPOST: Simply add your kitchen scraps to the compost bin and cover with leaves.  Next turn your pile.  
Another key step is to make sure that you are adding the correct ratio of materials to your bin.  (I learned this the hard way after adding too much nitrogen and not enough carbon....believe me you don't want maggots in your compost).

For every one part of "green" high nitrogen materials (fruit and veggie scraps) we add 3 parts of "brown" carbon materials (leaves). We also make sure to bury the fruit and veggie scraps to keep the smell down. Basically I just make sure I add triple the amount of leaves to the kitchen scraps!!
To help your pile compost quickly turn it every 2 to 4 weeks and make sure to get a good mix of carbon "brown stuff" and nitrogen "green stuff" (30:1).  Doing this can get your pile to break down in 3 months or less.  

WHEN IS IT READY TO USE?
Your compost will smell more like dirt and be crumbly and dark brown in color.  Then you will know its ready to use. You may need to sift it through a screen to get rid of any sticks and larger materials.  At this point its ready to use as a mulch or mix into your topsoil.  
Compost ready to use!
OTHER TIPS:
1. Keep the pile moist: Rain should naturally keep your pile moist but from time to time you may need to water it if you have a dry spell.  

2. Add microorganisms: In the fall we add a couple shovels of soil to introduce microorganisms. 

3. Don't turn the pile in the winter: Its too cold for the pile to decompose so its pointless. (This too I learned the hard way after breaking the bolt on one of our bins because the materials inside were frozen!)

4. Make compost tea with your compost:  Take 1-2 cups of compost and put it in nylon hose or cheese cloth and soak in a bucket filled with water for a couple of days.  Then use the brown liquid to water your plants. It will do wonders for your plants by providing nutrients, beneficial microorganisms and increasing plant growth. 

5. Don't compost diseased plants: If in doubt put diseased or insect infested plants in a yard bag for trash pick-up or find another area of the yard for them to decompose.  You can also research to see if the disease will overwinter in your compost bin.  If your plants have Fusarium or Verticillium wilt do not put them in the compost bin.  There is also debate over Powdery Mildew so I just choose not to compost those plants that are infected. 
Ready to clean out bolted lettuce & add the compost to the this bed (closest in picture)

6.28.2014

Harvesting Garlic



If there is one type of vegetable that I would highly recommend growing (because its easy) it would be garlic.  You plant it in the fall and then simply harvest it in the summer. Its low maintenance and virtually pest and disease free.  We have decided garlic is a new staple in our garden.  

This was our first year growing 2 different types: Tochilavri (soft neck) and German White (hard neck).  We planted the cloves from the 2 bulbs in the above picture and they produced 21 bulbs of garlic! They were planted in the fall on November 16th, 2013.  The trickiest part of growing garlic is knowing exactly when to harvest!  But have no fear we were successful with harvesting this year.  Here are my tips on harvesting:  
"ochilavri" GarlicPlanting Garlic
Lower leaves turning brown: ready to harvest!
The ideal time to harvest is when 6 or so leaves on the top of the garlic are still green and some of the lower leaves are brown.  A couple of weeks ago the lower leaves of our garlic started turning brown.  Its time to harvest!  
BED #4 Garlic, Lettuce, Onions and Summer Squash
 To prepare for harvesting the garlic needs to have time to dry out and cure.  In order for this to happen stop watering a couple of weeks early (and if it rains wait a week before harvesting).

HARVESTING GARLIC:
STEP 1: Loosen the soil around the bulb using a fork or your hand.  The soil will be fairly compacted so be careful not to damage the bulbs.  Also make sure not to pull on the stems. Carefully lift out the bulbs with your hands and brush off any soil that remains. 
Carefully removing soil around garlic bulb
STEP 2: Make sure to leave the stalks and roots on the bulbs. 
Roots left on bulb for storage
STEP 3: Get the bulbs out of the sun right away. Select a well-ventilated room or dry shaded spot outside (in the shade) and allow the bulbs to cure.  The location should be airy, dry and have some air circulation.  

NOTE: We put down plastic garbage bags under our rug on the deck (to stop rain from coming through the deck onto the garlic below) then hung a PVC pipe under the deck and hung the garlic.  One hour later the rain started pouring and I am happy to say the garlic stayed dry!
Our drying location (under our deck)
STEP 4: Now the waiting begins!  It takes about 3 to 8 weeks for the bulbs to cure.  When the wrappers are dry its time to prepare the bulbs for storage. 
The garlic a week later
 STEP 5: Cut off the tops to an inch above the bulbs and then trim the roots to about 1 inch.  (Do not wash the bulbs).  Remove just the dirtiest layers of the wrappers around the garlic. (Remember the wrapping protects the garlic).
HOW TO STORE GARLIC: 
STEP 6: Store in mesh (net bags) in a location that is cool and dry.  The ideal temperature is 35-50 degrees F.  Some air circulation is also helpful.

Softneck Garlic: Can be stored for 6 to 8 months.  Just make sure its not sprouting or soft.

Hardneck Garlic: Lasts for 2 to 4 months.  If it goes soft, dry or sprouts it has already begun to deteriorate.  If possible keep this variety at 32 degrees F for longer storage. 
Cloves we planted in November 2013. 

Finally keep the best bulbs for replanting in the fall.  Plant around October or November and then enjoy your own garlic harvest in the summer. For details on planting garlic see my previous post: Planting Garlic