Tomato Issues & Solutions

Cool night temperatures and an usual amount of rainfall for July has been positive for flowers and other vegetables, but harmful to warm temperature plants like tomatoes.  This year we have had two issues with our tomatoes on the deck.  "Septoria Leaf Spot" and "Blossom-End Rot."  Here is some information on what to do if you find these issues on your tomato plants.  
 
Tomatoes love the heat and cool temperatures can produce a disease called "Septoria Leaf Spot" The spots start to show up when the first fruit are setting on the plant.  They are 1/16" to 1/4" inch in size and you find them first on the lower leaves of the plant (see picture below).  The center of the spots have black or brown centers and are surrounded by brown.  The tissue that surrounds the spots eventually will turn yellow.  The more spots on the leaf the more likely it will just shrivel and die.

"Septoria Leaf Spot" on our plant

If you find that your plants are starting to developing Septoria Leaf Spot then remove the diseased leaves and destroy them right away (do not compost).  Those left on the plant can spread infection.  The tomatoes on your plants will be fine but you may have a reduced crop if lots of leaves are removed (tomatoes need leaves to produce).  

You can also use mulch like grass clippings around the base of the plants to stop the pathogen from going from the ground to the plants.  If you need to water the plants (this year that has been rare due to rain) make sure to water at the base of the plant and not to water overhead or get leaves wet.

Tomato ready to harvest

The second issue is "Blossom End Rot" which is caused by a calcium deficiency.  The deficient soil is not able to bring the tomatoes to the ripe stage before the fruit rots.  This year I believe it is because the rain can cause the nutrients to rush out of the soil (we have had more than our fair share of rain this year!)   

One day I walked out and the tomatoes were orange and almost ready to pick and the next day they were red with these water soaked dark brown circles underneath.  I have had several other people in this state tell me they have had the same issue this year.  I did find it interesting that the garden I know of in Alabama (which planted some of my tomato seedlings) hasn't had this issue and also hasn't had this cool moist summer!  Anyway it is quite a disappointment when you were ready to eat your tomatoes.  The good news is that it can be prevented and stopped after it has begun. 

Rain can cause nutrients to rush out of the soil rapidly - See more at: http://gardenmentors.com/garden-help/edible-gardens/growing-tomatoes-successfully-despite-cold-temperatures-and-rain/#sthash.cGyeUAHx.dp

Two of our tomatoes with "Blossom-End Rot"

If you find this issue on your tomatoes throw out the fruit with blossom end rot (keep those on the vine that are not showing any signs of rot) and use these means of prevention and control: 

BLOSSOM END ROT SOLUTIONS:
1.  Use a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorous. 

2.  Treat calcium deficiency with one of these options:
a. Epsom Salt- Once a week dissolve 1/2 cup of Epsom salt in a gallon of water and slowly pour all of the mixture around the base of the plant. 
b. Tomato Rot Stop- Quick acting liquid calcium chloride you can purchase in a spray.  You apply it on the fruit and foilage after you get heavy rain or rapid growth (apply early morning or late evening to prevent leaf burn).

3. Apply mulch to maintain constant soil moisture. 

4. Water at the base of the plant and not to water overhead or get leaves wet. 

Green tomatoes still on the vine

Preventative measures for next planting year:
1. Work Epsom salt into the soil before planting tomatoes (and other garden vegetables) in the spring.  For a raised bed garden (4x 6 or 4 x 8) apply one pound.  For containers and pots use one cup and work into the soil.  

2. Several times during the growing season side dress or water the vegetables with 1/2 cup of Epsom salt dissolved in one gallon of water. 

I am happy to report that I used Tomato Rot Stop on our tomato plants on the deck and I have been harvesting healthy tomatoes with no more Blossom End Rot!  Here is a picture of the harvest......delicious.

Harvest last week of Green Beans, Zucchini, Summer Squash, Cucumber and 2 red Tomatoes with no issues!

Starting Plants from Seed

How do you determine what plants to start indoors from seed?  If this is your first time starting seeds I would recommend selecting a few types of vegetables and then buying the rest.  This will allow you time to experiment with starting from seed and learn what adjustments you need to make.   Some vegetables are more difficult than others to start from seed (we have learned this from personal experience).   

This is the first year that we decided to try and grow our own plants from seed.  Normally I buy tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, basil, parsley and cilantro plants from a garden center.  Then we directly sow the rest of our vegetables in the garden as seeds (such as beans, squash, and carrots).  

You may be wondering what prompted me to try this?  I would say a combination of curiosity and the future idea of saving money.  This year we doubled our planting area adding 2 more raised beds (for a total of 4 beds) and we knew the cost would add up quickly.   So this winter I did my research and we decided to take the plunge and grow as many plants from seed as possible.  We both figured that if it didn't work we would just go out and buy the plants we needed.  

In previous posts you have seen the Parsley, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Tomato, Eggplant, Peppers and Basil that we successfully started from seed.   I didn't get around to taking pictures when I first started those seeds, so today I am going to make sure that I show you the steps I took in detail. 

In this post I am going to be planting squash, zucchini, watermelon, and cucumbers.  Typically you just start these types of plants from seed right in the garden, but I wanted to try and give them a head start this year.  If you try squash, zucchini, watermelon or cucumbers you need to plant the seeds in pots that decompose when you plant them directly in the ground (such as peat pots or coconut coir pots).  With these types of plants you want to disturb the roots as little as possible.  When you are ready to plant them in the garden you just tear 1/2" off the top of the pot and plant the entire pot and its contents directly in the ground. 

2012 Garden in Review

 Hand-drawn Garden Plan

 This is the rough plan I drew up in 2012 for our garden layout. 

May 27th, 2012 
Pictured below are the two raised beds we constructed out of pine in 2012.  The vegetables are just starting to grow.  The layout and spacing we used is from the Square Foot Gardening Method.

In the closest bed (#3) we had: (2) Butternut Squash which would grow on the trellis, (12) Eggplant- two different types: (6) Lavendar Touch and (3) Black Beauty, and (171) Bush Beans- Bush Blue Lake 274 variety. 

In the farthest bed (#4) we had: (3) Straight neck Summer Squash, (2) Cilantro, (1) Green Bell Pepper, (1) Yellow Bell Pepper, (1) Pepper Carmen, (4) 1 year crown Asparagus, (256) Yellow Onions. 

We also planted (2) Bush Zucchini plants on mounds.  You can't see them in this picture but they were located to the left of the first raised bed.                                                                 

New constructed pine beds with vegetables growing

Pine beds a few weeks later.